![]() ![]() Experimentation with Film stocks to me seems like a massive waste of time and effort – I cannot afford to waste Film and am not one to set up test subjects and then spend time with it all – yes, it’s a lack of patience and/or laziness, but I like photography as I enjoy it and only photograph something I want to and which gives me pleasure (hence I couldn’t ever be a paid wedding or event photographer as I’d get bored and impatient), anyway I was happy with the Rollei films so didn’t think much of it. Now Retro 80s is a tricky film to shoot – highlights can easily blow out and there’s a lot of contrast – but get it right and the results are lovely! What it lacks though is nice delicate tonality (400s obviously has more but still not perfect) so I’ve ever been put off from shooting various scenes to assess Film as I lacked experience with other films and also lacked the time and inclination to experiment. To cut a long story short I eventually settled on the Rollei Retro 80s and 400s – I have been very happy with the results and the price isn’t sky high as on Kodak, Fuji and Ilford (I formerly loved shooting Fuji Acros 100, Ilford FP4+ and Agfa APX 400 – but when prices started to rise I started using Agfafoto APX and then once upon a time about 12 or so years ago shot a roll of Rollei Retro 80s and used that (and the 400s) exclusively ever since. My go-to Colour was Kodak Ektachrome e100vs and when that was discontinued (I still have two precious rolls in the freezer for that next exotic trip abroad where I’ll shoot it carefully) I was bewildered and grudgingly had to use the various Fujichromes until Kodak released the regular Ektachrome, which though not perfect almost had the ‘look’ I like.īut with B&W there has always been a lot of choice and prices used to be quite low and very affordable. This is just an added convenience that is available, but not required.I’ve been shooting Film for a relatively long time but I’m quite cautious when shooting it, I have my comfort zone where I have my preferred Film and stick to it – reluctant to try anything else or explore. When you turn the knob or lever the interconnect device retracts the deadbolt simultaneously to unlock the door. The interconnect device connects the interior lever or knob with the deadbolt on an emtek handleset. This gives you the look of a complete working set, but doesn't have all of the mechanisms - perfect for an inactive door.Įmtek offers an interconnect device as an available option for their active handlesets. For the inactive door, you'll want to order a dummy handleset. For the active side, you'll need a single or double cylinder handleset. If you have a double front door where one side is generally inactive while the other is always active, you will need a combination of two handle sets. For this reason we recommend the single cylinder handleset for most applications. The disadvantage of using a double cylinder handleset is that in the event of an emergency you would have to locate the key to unlock the door and get out of the building. Some people use double cylinder handlesets on glass doors where they are concerned that someone may be able to break the glass and unlock the door from the inside. This means that to exit or enter the door you must have a key to unlock the door. Single cylinder handleset are by far the most popular function of handle set.Įmtek double cylinder handlesets have a keyed lock on both sides of the handleset. Emtek Lausanne Handleset is Available in the Following FunctionsĮmtek single cylinder handlesets are locked/unlocked with a key from the exterior and locked/unlocked from the inside of the home with a thumbturn. ![]()
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